Issue 8 · 11 Feb 2026

The Return Issue

Back after three months, slightly embarrassed about it. Rajaji National Park without the zoo expectations, four cafés four years on, and an honest attempt to say what it actually is about this town.

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In this issue

Four Years Later, the Same Four Cafés

The garden changed, the openness didn't.

Café Crawl with Ashish

Osho vs J. Krishnamurti: This Week, Instagram

"Earlier gurus wanted followers too. They just didn't have Insta followers."

Divine Dialogues

Rajaji National Park: What to Actually Expect

Rajaji is not a zoo. If you go expecting guarantees, you'll be disappointed.

Did You Know

The Return Issue: An Editorial Note

October!! November… December?? Early January. Mid January. "Shortened timeline."

From the Editor's Desk

What Is It About Rishikesh?

Five elements you cannot avoid, a town that doesn't correct you, and an honest attempt at the question everyone asks.

Themed Spreads

The standing columns

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The paper is built on recurring features. Follow the ones you like — each page collects every instalment.

From the archive

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Eight editions of essays, dialogues, café crawls and Didi's least diplomatic advice.

Divine Dialogues

Saraswati vs Kali: The Art of Being Messy

"The wheel must be centred, Kali." "I prefer when the clay cracks."

Issue 7

Themed Spreads

Time of Art

Art isn't made, it's found. And somewhere along the way we wrongly decided there are two kinds of people.

Issue 7

Out and About

Adventure Trails, Part 1: Five Treks Within Reach

Kuari Pass, Chandrashila, Dodital, the Valley of Flowers, and the summit of silence.

Issue 6

Divine Dialogues

Buddha — Oh My OSHO OSHO!

A quiet café where people whisper "namaste" louder than they mean it.

Issue 6

Headlines from Tapovan

The Ganga Ji Is Back

After months of mood swings and muddy tantrums, she's flowing wide, gentle, and full of quiet conversation.

Issue 6

Themed Spreads

Time of Sensing

Five old friends argue in a café, mindfulness turns out to be a reunion, and Ashish learns that a hug is a conversation.

Issue 6

From the Editor's Desk

Practical Ways to See Differently

When the eyes keep moving, the mind keeps moving. Turning the wandering eye into the eye of love.

Issue 5

Divine Dialogues

Ram vs Krishna: Straight Lines and Circles

"You taught the world to walk straight. I taught them to dance."

Issue 5

Knowledge Series

The Eyes That Lead the Soul

"Your practice begins with the eyes." Arjun laughed. Then he found his balance.

Issue 5

Rishikesh, practically

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The useful bits, pulled out of the paper and kept up to date.

Ganga Aarti: Which Ghat Should You Actually Go To?
Four ghats, four completely different evenings. A guide to choosing yours.
Four Caves to Wander Into Near Rishikesh
Caves are the original yoga studios. They strip away décor, music, props.
The Cafés of Tapovan: The Complete Map
Sixteen places, four years of sitting in them, gathered from every Café Crawl so far.

Every edition

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